Yujean Kang’s Celebrates 20 Years in Old Pasadena

Think about it: 20 years in Old Pasadena. If you’ve been alive that long you’ll remember the “Old Town” Pasadena of 20 years ago as in flux, not quite the thriving tourist area it has become but not the seedy spot it was. There are not many businesses left from those early days and certainly not restaurants. But those that have survived are the tried and true those with delicious food, fabulous service, and a bit of je ne sais quoi.

Yujean Kang on Raymond Avenue was/is one of those pioneering restaurants. Chinese Cuisine with a bit of aplomb, a whole lot of taste and a one heck of a wine list! Chinese restaurants are not usually known for their wine list (if they have one at all). Really what would you rather have with a gourmet Chinese dinner a nice glass of wine or tea?

As I sipped on my glass of Chartogne Tailet Champagne I nibbled on steamed shrimp and chive dumplings, crispy chicken and mustard green tofu rolls and as stunning for the eye as it was for the palate the steamed four season dumplings. These pork-based dumplings had four pockets: one filled with chives, one with mushrooms, one with egg and one with tomato. I shudder to think of the time that goes into making these gems but the results are delicious.

A dish of sautéed pawns came next served with fresh asparagus and studded with smoked cod. The cod was a real flavor-enhancer adding a bit of smoke almost like bacon but without bacon’s chewiness.

The dish that really shined for me was the braised black cod with roasted garlic. The cod glistened with miso and just melted in my mouth. The garlic was expertly roasted to an almost sweet potato-like consistency and taste. Both the shrimp and the cod were enjoyed with a glass of fruity-tart Russian River Chardonnay from Brogan Cellars.

An expertly-roasted Beijing duck was served two ways: the crispy skin was chopped into pieces and put into a delicate crepe with scallions and Hoisin sauce and then the meat was sautéed with silver sprouts and also served on a crepe. Tasty but very rich, I savored this course with an Oregon Pinot from Amalie Robert with just enough plum to enhance the Hoisin and the acid needed to balance the richness of the duck.

I know pork belly is all the rage, but I don’t get it. I’m more of a Jack Sprat could eat no fat kind of gal (except when it’s in butter). So with that proviso I must say that I didn’t hate the braised pork belly with fresh winter bamboo shoots and black mushrooms. The sauce was outstanding as were the black mushrooms. The pork belly was fairly meaty so I was able to taste a fair amount of it and it was tender and delicious. This dish was served with light-delicate silk squash Beijing style. A lightly sweet German Riesling from Dorsheimer Burgberg was the foil to this rich dish.

Dessert was an interesting combination of a red bean pancake in a delicate coconut sauce, now this is where the tea came in and was gladly accepted!

To call Yujean Kang’s just a Chinese restaurant does not do it justice. It is a bona fide gourmet spot for foodies who want an experience, not just food. If orange chicken is your idea of Chinese food I suggest you stick to your local take-out but if you like your food with taste, originality and flare, put Yujean Kang’s on your must-visit list.

Yujean Kang’s Gourmet Chinese Cuisine, 67 N. Raymond Avenue, Pasadena. Hours: Sunday-Thursday: 11:30 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. and 5:00 – 9:00 p.m. and Friday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. and 5:00 – 10:00 p.m. For more questions and reservations call (626) 585-0855 or log onto www.yujeankangs.com.